Process of making shoes.



C. TWEEDIE.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FIILED MAR. a. I9I5.

Patented June 26, 1917.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

c. TWEEDIE.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 6. I915.

1,2'30Q954. Patented June 26, 1917.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

rnocnss or" LES 'rwnnmn, or J'nrrnnson crrr, mrssonnr.

not G SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented June 2%, 1%17.

Application filed March 8, 1915. Serial K0. 12,507.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES Twnnnrs, a citizen of the United States, anda resident of Jefferson City, in the county of Cole and State ofMissouri, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Processes ofMaking Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

The invention relates to welt shoes, and particularly to the manner offorming the shoe and of securing the sole of the shoe to the upper.

Objects of this invention are to make shoes without using lasts, and tosave ma terial, machinery and labor heretofore required for machine madeshoes. Further objects of the invention are to secure flexibility andcomfort in machine made welt shoes.

Generally stated, the invention consists in a new process for makingwelt shoes without insoles, and in improved shoes made by said process,but no claim for the shoes apart from the process is made herein.

What the invention consists in, and the advantages thereof over shoes asheretofore made, appear more fully in connection with the followingdescription of the processes of making shoes illustrated in theaccompanying drawings. The invention is more particularly defined in theappended claims.

In the drawings, wherein the same reference characters designate likeparts in the several views,

Figure 1 is a perspective top view of a shoe upper made in conformity tothe in vention;

Fig. 2 is a similar view of another form of shoe upper made inconformitywith the invention;

Fig. 3 is a perspective bottom view of the shoe upper shown in Fig. 1,showing the upper and welt turned in ready for the sole to be applied;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 of the upper shown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a top plan view of the shoe upper shown in Fig. 1 after thesole is cemented on and prior to stitching it to the welt;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 of the shoe upper shown in Fig. 2after cementing on a three-quarter length sole;

Fig. 7 is a side view of a finished shoe embodying an upper like thatshown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 8 is a side "iew of a finished shoe embodying an upper like thatshown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 9 is an outline view of the two parts of a shoe counter formingpart of the invention;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the- In carrying out this invention,the shoe upper is prepared from the same patterns in use heretofore,with the same allowances for laps and scams, but the allowance forlasting under at the sole is made less than has been requiredheretofore. The lasting allowance at the toe for the upper 13 shown in Fig. 1 is about from one-eighth of an inch to three-sixteenths of aninch, and this allowance is substantially uniform for the entire lengthof the inside of the shoe to the heel seam and nearly around to the ballof the foot on the outside. The lasting allowance increases as the ballof the foot is approached, to a maximum of about from three-sixteenthsof an inch to five-sixteenths of an inch, and gradually diminishes fromthe ball of the foot toward the toe, where it is about from one-eighthof an inch to three-sixteenths of an inch.

The lasting allowance for the upper 14 shown in Fig. 2 is the same asthat for Fig. 1

except around the heel, where it is from one-half to five-eighths of aninch, which is about the same as for shoes made according to processesin common use heretofore. There is a considerable saving in the amountof leather required for the upper cut as above described over thatrequired foruppers cut with a uniform lasting allowance of five-eighthsof an inch, or thereahout, as has been required heretofore.

A leather counter 15 is fitted and sewed to the upper 13 prior tofitting the lining. This counter may be of ordinary shape andconstruction, but it is preferably made in two pieces 15 and 15 (seeFig. 9) which are skived all around their edges and are sewed togetherat the back line of the heel, as shown in Fig. 10. The two parts of thecounter need not be sewed together separately, but may be connected bythe same line of stitches which secures the two quarters together alongthe back seam. The sewed edges of the two parts of the counter should bespread apart and the joint rubbed too .it pliability. The counter 16 forthe upper 14 (shown in Fig.2) is similar to the counter 15, but it isslightly wider, the extra width turning under the heel with the extralasting allowance on the heel portion of the 7 upper 14.

If desired, the counter 15 can be made somewhat wider than as shown inFig. 1 and allowed to project from three-eighths to one-half of an inchbelow the lower edgeof the upper. The projecting portion turns under theheel with the lower edge of the {upper and forms a flange which is wideenough tobe sewed or nailed to the sole inside of the vertical wall ofthe heel to strengthen the heel portion of the shoe. Also,

if desired, the lasting allowance of the upper 14 around the'heel can bemade the same as around; the greaterportion of the sole, that is, justenough to turn under, and the counter can be arranged to project belowit to providea sufficient width for lasting under. Preferably a lineofstitching is run around the heel seat to secure the counter to theupper. In the drawings this line of stitching is shown as a continuationof the stitching 19 which secures the welt 17 to the upper, as ishereinafter described, but the counter may be stitched around the heelseat separately if preferred. If a lining is used it is preferablysecured by stitching the vamp to the quarters through the lining and ifa toe cap or tip is used it is preferably stitched to the vamp throughthe linin A welt or narrow strip of leather 17, a out three-eighths toone-half an inch in width is sewed to the lower edge of the upper 13-all the way around it. In sewing the welt to the upper the grain side ofthe welt is laid fiatwise on the finished outside face of the upper,with the outer or lower edges of the welt and upper coextensive, anda'line of stitching 19 at a uniform distance from the edgeof the up erof from one-eighth to three-sixteenths o aninch is run through the welt,upper and lining 20. This stitching of the welt to the upper is flatwork and can be done by girl operatives on ordinary sewing machines. 7

The upper 14 has a welt 18 which extends from "about opposite the breastof the heel on the outside around the toe to the corresponding point onthe inside of the shoe (see .Fig. 2). The welt 18 for the upper 14 islike the welt 17 for theupper 13 in all re-' spects except its length,and is likewise stitched through the upper'and linin 20.

The lining 20 is not necessary or all shoes, and it may be wholly orpartly omitnae eea the welt. These notches may be omitted in part orentirely,- depending upon the thickness of the leather and the sharpnessof the curves in the outline of' the shoe.

The next operation in making the shoe, shown in Figs. 2, 4, 6 and 7 isinserting a heel seat 22, which may have a short shank portion, turningin the lower edge of the heel portion of the upper, counter and liningunder the heel seat, and tacking the flange 23 thus formed to the heelseat (see Fig. 4). This operation may be performed on an iron hornshaped to conform approximately to the size and shape of heel desired.The shank portion of the insole may be stiffened by means of an archsupport 24 consisting of a strip of thin spring steel, wood or othersuitable material. 1

The outsole is rounded off to approximately its desired finished shapeprior to attaching it to the upper. One or two strips of canvas 25 areimpregnated with hardening gum and are pasted between the upper and tothe lining in the toe, then the free edge of the welt is pulled awayfrom the upper and turned out all around, thereby turning in the sewededges of the welt, upper and lining. The exposed face of the welt isglued or pasted to the edge of the flesh side of the outsole, followingthe outline of the sole all the way around the shoe from the heel end ofthe sole on the inside to the heel end of the sole on the outside. Awood or fiber-board form 26 for the box toe (see Figs. 11 and 12) may beinserted in the toe, either before or after pasting the welt to thesole. If a box toe is not desired, the strips of canvas 25 may beomitted and the form 26 may be dispensed with.

The outsole 27 for the shoe shown in Figs. 5 and 8 is cut full length,with the same allowance for extension beyond the upper all the wayaround the shoe. The outline of the outsole is what determines the shapeofthe shoe in the case of the shoe shown in Figs. 5 and-8. The outsole28 for the shoe shown in Figs. 6 and 7 may be cut full length, butpreferably it is three-quarter length, and the shank end is skived offand overlaps the breastiof-the heel, as is more fully described inmypatent No.1,11-5,038, dated Oct. 27, 1914. The shape of the forepart andshank of the shoe shown in F igs. 6 and 7 is determined by the outlineof the sole, and the shape of the heel is determined by the outline ofthe heel seat 22. 7

Following the pasting down of the welt, the outsole and welt are sewedtogether by a line of stitching 29 following the contour of the solearound the outside of the upper. This stitching operation can be peruseformed. on any machine for lair-stitching soles, and does not require aspecial ma chine such as has been requireil heretofore for stitching theupper to the sole or insole,

The shoe is neat fitted with a heel, the sole and heel are trimmed, thetoe anal heel portions of the upper are smoothed or ironed, and thebottom of the shoe and edges of the sole and heel are painted, accordingto existing processes for finishing shoes as may be desired. The shoeshown in Fig, 7 is preferably fitted with a heel 3Q having a soleextension portion. for piecing out the short sole 28, in accordance withmy patent No, 1,115,038; but this invention is not restricted to anyparticular heel or process of attaching it. The shoe shown in Fig. 8 mayhave a leather or rubber heel 31, or the heel may be omitted, as(lesirei The box toe form 26 may be fittecl with a pivoted. connectinglinlr 32 anol heel piece 33 as shown in Fig: 11 or it he fitted with apirotetl shank or having a pointed. tool 35 in its free end for engagingthe sole and retaining'the forrn in position, as shown in Fig,

Among the advantages of the invention. are the saving in cost ofproduction through the elimination oi lasts, insole patterns, in soles,labor in connection. with tacking on insoles anal outsol for lasting andinseam in'g machines, puln lasts, and rough trim.- Ining soles; the savg royal es for pulling' over machines, in ting mac es, inseamingmachines ana stitching machines; the saving in upper leather and liningmaterial; anti the lurtier in the cost of the leatheiv clue to the f etthat cheaper upper leather he use" hen is practicable for lasted sliceaccorclance with the invention. is more substantial serviceable than. aturn shoe anal more lilo ancl ere comfortable than a titch clown Theinw'ition is not rest c the enheretofore (lose cl, nor to their ore ofper nice, is evident that changes in the s arrangement can he inarleintion, anal the parof some the par. of the s without departing theinvention is not restric 'ticplar "Kl clescri ntion rin we slices which.cl rounding process oi 89111 3 making the sole substantial sewing weltalon upper on outer s 7 lie welt out securing it :iatwise cage ,1 on themargin cf the shapes sole followoutline reel? to determine the entireoutline of the welt and the bottom u of the upper in cents -rewith, '2 Tprocess of making were shoes which comprises stitching, a counter to anupper once along the location oi? the hacl; seam and heel seat, sewing awelt along bottom edge of the upper on. its outer side, turning in theheel seat portion of the upper and counter, turning the upper edge ofthe welt out and securing it llatwise on the to margin. of a sole shapel to substantially its linisherl shape following the outline thereo'i todetermine the entire outline of the welt and the bottom portion of theupper in contact therewith as far as the two are coextensive.

3. The process of making welt shoes which comprises making the upperwith a small lasting allowance around the toe and inside of the shankand a larger lasting allowance along the ball on the outside, sewing awell; along the bottom erlge of the upper on its outer sicle, turningthe upper edge of the welt out anti securing it iiatwise in coincitlencewith the edge of a sole previously rounrlecl to substantially itsfinished shape 4-. The process of making welt shoes which comprisesmaking the upper and rounding the sole substantially to its finished.shape, sewing a welt along the bottom eo'ige of the upper on its outersirle, notching a portion of the bottom edge of the "welt anrl upper,turning the upper erlge of the welt out anrl securing it fiatwise to theezlge portion of the rounrlecl sole with their erlges in coincidence,

5, The process of maliin welt shoes which comprises making the upper,sewing a counter to the heel portion oi the upper antl a welt along thebottom. edge oi? the upper on outer side, turning upper edge of the weltout and the lower of the welt and counter in, itfill securing the bottomof the welt llatw se to the sole with. their edges in coincidence, saiclsole having previously been IGHHClGCl to substantially linisherl shapeand securing a heel to the turnedl uncler portions of the counter andwelt.

6-, The lastless process of making shoes which rises cutting the upperwith a unilor J sin-all lasting allowance arounrl the toe shank, sewinga na row welt flat-wise along the lower edge of the upper, turning theinner edge of said out whereby the lower edge of saitl upper is turnecloutlining contour oi the shoe on the so as by rouncling the solesubstantially ii ow welt edge of said. upper is turned in, outlining thecontour of the shoe on the sole, as by rounding the sole tosubstantially finished shape, and securing the outturned edge of saidwelt to the sole along said contour to shape the shoe around the bottomof the upper.

8. The lastless process of making shoes which comprises cutting theupper with a uniformly small lasting allowance around the toe and shankand a slightly larger lasting allowance at the ball on the outside,sewing a narrow welt flatwise along the lower edge of the upper, turningthe inner edge of said welt out whereby the lower edge of said upper isturned in, outlining the contour of the shoe on the sole, as by roundingthe sole to substantially finished shape, and securing the outturnededge of said welt to the sole along said contour to shape the shoearound the bottom of the upper.

-9. The lastless process of making shoes which comprises cutting theupper with a uniformly small lasting allowance around the toe and shank,sewing a narrow welt fiatwise along the lower edge of the upper on itsface side with the outer edge of said welt coextensive with the loweredge of the upper, turning the inner edge of said welt nut whereby theiewer edge of said upper is turned in, outlining the contour of the shoeon the sole, as by rounding the sole to substantially finished shape,and securing the outturned edge of said welt to the sole along saidcontour to shape the shoe around the bottom of the upper.

10. The lastless process of making shoes which comprises cutting theupper with a uniformly small lasting allowance around the toe and shankand a slightly larger lasting allowance at the ball on the outside,sewing a narrow welt flatwise along the lower edge of the upper with theouter edge of said welt coextensive with the lower edge of the upper,the face sides of said upper and welt being placed together, turning theinner edge of said welt out whereby the lower edge of said upper isturned in, outlining the contour of the shoe on the sole,

as by rounding the sole to substantially finished shape, and securingthe outturned edge of said welt to the sole along said contour to shapethe shoe around the bottom of the upper.

- Signed at Jefl'erson City, Missouri, this 26th day of February, 1915.

CHARLES TWEEDIE.

Witnesses 2 FRANK Zniznn, Herman "Wanner,

